
Trails · Waterfalls · Eats · Sour
I walk toward water,
and eat everything on the way.
Notes from Lebanese mountains, wet trails in the Pacific Northwest, and whichever dumpling place I have most recently become insufferable about.
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Mezze is a group project and you are doing it alone
The most common mistake people make with Lebanese food is ordering it like it is their food. One person, one plate, an appetiser and then a main. You cannot do it…

The Eslie rule
I have a rule that I did not decide on so much as accumulate: any place worth going is worth going with someone who will take the picture.

Kfarhelda in April, and the argument for going twice
I have a rule that I did not decide on so much as accumulate: any waterfall worth the drive is worth seeing twice, in two different months, because you are not…
Kfarhelda, Batroun

Wallace Falls in the rain, which is the only way I have seen it
Gold Bar, Washington

Day three on the Lebanon Mountain Trail
Day one you are excited. Day two you are sore and still excited. Day three is where the trail actually starts, because day three is the first day you walk without…
Between Tannourine and Hadath El Jebbeh

Baatara Gorge, and the three-bridge drop
You hear it before the path gives you anything to look at. That is true of most waterfalls, but at Baatara it is a specific kind of unfair, because the sound is…
Tannourine, Lebanon

The dumpling rule
Barcelona, Spain